Pattern Support

If you’ve never worked with a knitting pattern before, I highly recommend you read this article to get you started! In this article, you’ll learn how to knit from charts if you want to tackle that too!

If a pattern is a wearable and offers more sizes than one, you’ll find dimensions listed for each critical point of the accessory or garment, along with information about intended ease. Ease is the difference between the item dimension and your body measurements. Positive ease means that the item should be bigger than your actual body measurement (positive ease 5 cm / 2” means the item needs to be 5 cm / 2” bigger than your body at a specific point). Negative ease means that the item should be smaller than your body measurement - most usually, that’s used for pieces like hats or socks, that need to stay on your body and not slip down.

Browse around the Knitting Resources section for in depth information about basics of working with patterns and photo + video tutorials! My Youtube channel hosts quick video tutorials to help you with the techniques too.

I know it’s hard sometimes to get the exact same yarn - I always provide yarn information regarding the yarn weight and necessary yardage so it’s as easy as possible to find a substitution in various price ranges and wider availability. If you need help with finding a list of substitutes, the Yarnsub service is a great place to start!

In each of my patterns, you’ll find information about gauge. Gauge is the measure of tension of the yarn while working. It’s measured in stitches and rows per 10 cm (4”) over a specific stitch pattern listed. Achieving the same gauge as the design calls for ensures that you’ll achieve the same dimensions and drape of the knit as stated in the pattern - which is most critical for wearables such as sweaters, socks, hats, etc.

While you may be tempted to begging knitting the project right away - I strongly recommend knitting a gauge swatch before starting on the project. It will help you avoid unpleasant surprises and lost time while knitting. It’s really a small time investment to ensure your knit will fit you!

How to knit a gauge swatch?

Cast on approx. 10-20% more stitches than listed in the gauge pattern section for 10 cm (4”).

The tension of the edge stitches may differ from the “core” part, and that’s why it’s important to cast on more - to measure the gauge over the inner stitches. Take into account any stitch multiplies needed (if a stitch pattern is worked over 2 stitches, round up to the next full multiple of 2, etc.). Use the same yarn that you would for the full design and the same knitting needles. Different yarn, even in the same weight, may result in different gauge. If you can, use even the same colorway. Knitting needles - type and material (wooden, metal, bamboo) - also affect the gauge.

Knit the swatch in the stitch pattern listed until it’s approximately 12 cm (4.75”) long. Bind off.

Wash and block the swatch in the same way that you would the finished item, and let it dry.

Using a tape measure, count how many stitches fit horizontally in 10 cm (4”) and how many rows fit vertically into 10 cm (4”).

Compare your gauge to the gauge listed in the pattern. If it’s the same - perfect! Move on to knitting the pattern. If you get more stitches in 10 cm (4”) than the pattern calls for - swatch again using larger needles. If you get fewer stitches in 10 cm (4”) than the pattern calls for, swatch again using smaller needles.

As a side note, in some patterns, you may notice that the gauge and/or recommended needles differ from the recommendation on the yarn label. In all of the cases, it’s deliberate and allows to achieve the density and texture of the fabric as was intended in the design - for example, a much more dense fabric for socks to ensure durability or a looser gauge for more drapey sweaters, shawls, and others.

Blocking is the last step of completing a knitting or crochet project. It allows the stitches to even out, the yarn and fabric to achieve the final drape and softness, and the item to get the final shape in some cases. Wet blocking also allows to wash away impurities and any residuals of substances applied to the yarn in the production process.

While blocking is not obligatory for most of the items, I highly recommend it because it will make your piece look much more even and feel softer. Blocking lacework pieces is an essential step as it allows the stitches to open up and achieve the final dimensions.

How to block?

Always consult the yarn label for washing directions - my preference is to always treat each item as gently as it’s possible to avoid unpleasant surprises and to make the items last as long as possible in great shape.

STEP ONE

Fill a bowl or sink with lukewarm water, and add a portion of wool wash. I often use “Soak” or “Eucalan”. Make sure that the blocked item is totally submerged in the water.

STEP TWO

Move the item in the water around very gently to make sure all of it is soaked in water. Let it soak according to the wool wash directions - usually around 20-30 minutes.

STEP THREE

Remove the item from the water (pay attention to holding the whole item so it doesn’t stretch under the weight of water), and very gently squeeze out some water. Don’t twist, wring, or rub. Place the item on a towel and wrap it. Very gently squeeze the “towel burrito” - the towel will absorb more of the water.

STEP FOUR

Lay the item flat to dry - on another towel or on a blocking mat. Shape the item with your hands. If it’s a lace knit or a shawl that needs to hold a specific shape - block it on a blocking mat, and pin it in place in desired shape and dimensions with rust-proof pins.

STEP FIVE

Let the item air dry flat - keep it away from sunlight to avoid color deterioration and away from radiators. It may take longer to dry, especially in humid weather, but it’s definitely worth the effect.

The first step in caring for your knitwear is checking the yarn label - it will contain information on fiber composition along with care instructions for your yarn - is it machine washable, or just delicate hand washing is allowed if it’s dry clean only and so on.

WASHING

It’s important to know that wool doesn’t have to be washed super often - due to its properties, sometimes it’s enough to freshen it by just hanging it in fresh air for a bit.

I wash all of my wearable knitwear by hand, using a gentle wool wash such as “Soak” or “Eucalan”. These wool washes are no-rinse, making them easy to use - fill a bowl or sink with water, add the required amount of wool wash, and let it soak according to the instructions, usually 20-30 minutes.

Then remove the item from the water (pay attention to holding the whole item so it doesn’t stretch under the weight of water), and very gently squeeze out some water. Don’t twist, wring, or rub. Place the item on a towel and wrap it. Very gently squeeze the “towel burrito” - the towel will absorb more of the water.

Lay the item flat to dry - on another towel or on a blocking mat. Shape the item with your hands. If it’s a lace knit or a shawl that needs to hold a specific shape - block it on a blocking mat, and pin it in place in desired shape and dimensions with rust-proof pins.

Let the item air dry flat - keep it away from sunlight to avoid color deterioration and away from radiators. It may take longer to dry, especially in humid weather, but it’s definitely worth the effect.

Drying flat is really important - knitwear is delicate and may stretch out when it’s hung, especially when it’s heavy with all the soaked water.

When handling knitwear, be careful not to rub it or wash it at too high temperature - in some fibers, it may result in shrinking and felting your precious item.

Some yarns are acceptable for machine washing - for example, superwash-treated yarn or some cotton yarns. In that case, you can try to machine wash them, however, I would recommend using a mesh bag for washing delicate items.

If you don’t have the label for your yarn and you’re not sure how to wash your knitwear - you may either take a safe approach - cleaning by hand, gently or knit a small swatch with the yarn and try to wash it in your desired method to see what is the result.

STORAGE

Store your knitwear folded, laying it on the shelf - don’t hang your knitted sweaters on hangers as it may stretch them out. To prevent moths from eating away your wool items, you can place bits of lavender or cedar wood in the closet.