Crayon Socks Knitting Pattern
The Crayon Socks are easy socks featuring the simplest heel construction - perfect for your first sock project! With a simple form, they are a great canvas for mixing colors - you can knit them all in one color, in two colors, or even make cuff, heel and toes all in different colors! This post contains affiliate links that support the content on this blog.
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GET THE CRAYON SOCKS:
Crayon Socks Free Knitting Pattern
Choose one of the three sizes listed - 1 (2, 3) and follow the directions for your size later in the instructions section. Each instruction that differs depending on the size will be listed in the exact same format - for example, k 8 (9, 10), which means: for size 1 - k8, for size 2 - k9, and size 3 - k10.
If you’ve never worked with a knitting pattern before, I recommend that you first read my blog post about knitting from a pattern.
© Whileberry 2023. Please keep in mind that this pattern is for personal use only, and both the pattern and photos can’t be copied or reproduced on another website.
sizes
1 (2, 3). Finished sock circumference is 17.5 (20, 22.5) cm / approx. 7 (8, 9)”. Choose a size that is 1 - 2.5 cm (0.5 - 1”) smaller than your foot circumference. Foot length is adjustable - for a good fit, knit a sock approx. 1.5 cm (0.5”) shorter than your actual foot length.
tools & supplies
yarn
For these socks, you’ll need approx. 220 (250, 285) m - 240 (275, 310) yds of the main color and approx. 100 (110, 120) m - 110 (120, 130) yds of the contrast color of fingering weight (category 1 - super fine) yarn. However if you plan to lengthen the leg of the sock or knit a foot longer than 25 cm (10"), you’ll likely need more yarn than this! For my pair I used a skein of hand dyed merino & nylon blend from a local yarn dyer - this pattern is great to use these special yarn skeins, also those most colorful and variegated! If you’re on the hunt for some solid yarn from widely available brands, any of those will be a great fit to use here:
needles
2.5 mm (US 1.5) circular needles 80 - 100 cm (32 - 40”), or to fit gauge
other notions
Stitch marker, tapestry needle, waste yarn and scissors.
gauge
32 stitches x 44 rounds in 10x10 cm (4x4”) in stockinette stitch, blocked
pattern notes
This pattern has been written for the magic loop method, however, it can be worked on DPNs if preferred. In this case, instead of dividing stitches into 2 equal parts, divide them into 4 equal parts - 2 for front/instep and 2 for back/sole.
Stitch count changes and totals are noted in italic.
Tutorials for specific techniques are linked and showing as yellow.
abbreviations
CC / MC - contrast / main color
dec - decreased
k - knit
k2tog - knit 2 sts together (1 st dec)
NA / NB - needle A / needle B
p - purl
rnd(s) - round(s)
ssk - slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, knit the slipped sts together through the back loop (1 st dec)
st(s) - stitch(es)
** - work instruction between asterisks given number of times or until given moment
instructions
cuff
With CC, cast on 56 (64, 72) sts using Old Norwegian Cast On, or another elastic cast on of your choice.
Divide sts evenly between two needles, join to work in the round and place a beginning of round marker.
The first half of the stitches will be referred to as NA (these will be your front / instep stitches) and the second half will be referred to as NB (these will be your back / sole stitches).
Work Rnd 1 in CC a total of 7 times.
Rnd 1: *k1, p1* until end of rnd.
Break CC yarn. Next, join MC and work Rnd 1 in MC once.
Leg
With MC, work in stockinette stitch (work Rnd 1 as below) until the sock is approx. 10 cm (4") long, including the cuff. If you wish, you can knit a longer leg, however please keep in mind it will increase the yardage needed.
Rnd 1: k until end of rnd.
Heel Placement
Next round, k all sts on NA with MC. Next, take waste yarn and k all sts on NB with it. Return the sts from NB to left needle, switch to MC and k the sts again until end of round.
Foot
With MC, work Rnd 1 until foot is approx. 8 (9, 9.5) cm / 3.25 (3.5, 3.75)" shorter than desired length. This allows approx. 4.5 (5, 5) cm / 1.75 (2, 2)" for the heel and approx. 3.5 (4, 4.5) cm / 1.5 (1.5, 1.75)" for the toe.
Rnd 1: k until end of rnd.
Note - for better length control, after working the foot for a few rounds, you can place the foot sts on a holder and move to work the heel.
Next, break MC yarn, join CC yarn and work Rnd 1 in CC once.
Toe
Toe will be worked in CC. Work Rnds 1-2 a total of 7 (8, 9) times - 14 (16, 18) rnds in total.
Rnd 1: *k1, ssk, k until 3 sts left on the needle, k2tog, k1* twice. 4 sts dec.
Rnd 2: k until end of rnd.
Next, work Rnd 1 once more for all sizes. 24 (28, 32) sts left in total on both needles.
Graft remaining sts together.
Heel
Heel will be worked using CC only. Pick up 56 (64, 72) sts around the waste yarn as follows - insert needle under the right leg of every stitch in the row below the waste yarn, then insert needle under the right leg of every stitch in the row above the waste yarn. When you pick up all the sts, remove the waste yarn.
Make sure your sts are divided evenly between both needles (NA will refer to the first half of stitches and NB will refer to the other half). Work a set-up round once as follows:
NA: k until end of needle, pick up and k 1 st in the corner of heel space,
NB: k until end of needle, pick up and k 1 st in the corner of heel space.
Next, work Rnds 1 - 2 a total of 9 (10, 11) times - 18 (20, 22) rnds in total. Work Rnd 1 once more.
Rnd 1: *k1, ssk, k until 3 sts left on the needle, k2tog, k1* twice. 4 sts dec.
Rnd 2: k until end of rnd.
18 (22, 26) sts left in total on both needles.
Graft remaining sts together.
Finishing
Weave in ends (weave one end in the cuff and the other one in the sole) and wet block.
